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REASONABLE DOUBT: FROM HOLY SITE TO SACRILEGE
by Noga Tarnopolsky
Jerusalem Post, Jan. 29, 2004


Go to the Western Wall. It is a strange wonder: not much more than a truncated stretch of an old retaining wall, crumbly at spots and studded with prickly caper bushes that emerge from its crevasses as if from the dark. As seen from above, it appears to be a magnetic force drawing dark-clad people to it in numbers, reluctantly letting them go. Individuals mill about as if there was nothing else to do, lean on the low wall that encloses the courtyard at its base and simply stare at the rocks.

The Wall and its peculiar, stolid luminosity never cease to astonish. It was not even a Temple wall, but the impact of its very survival for thousands of years endows it with an anthropomorphized quality of witnessing we usually associate only with intimate spaces, the bedroom walls that contained us as we grew, Grandma's kitchen.

It is as if this wall were the intimate space shared, in the end, by all Jews. If only for its historical claims, the western retaining wall of the fallen Temple in Jerusalem draws even the most secular. It is an old lion sitting there, impassive, watching. Our sphinx.

For a stubborn, fractious, divided people, no other symbol has been as unifying. Again, if you stand slightly away from the Western Wall and at a certain elevation, it is not unusual to see haredi men encased in black and secular women gazing at its uneven surface with an equal wonder, as if wishing to retain something of its aura. Given its significance, and given its import to Jews outside the country, you might expect that news relating to any changes at the wall would rate a headline or two.

But Israel, in addition to its ancient ramparts, has Ariel Sharon's legal woes to fret over, not to mention the appointment of Meni Mazuz, the prisoner swap with Hizbullah, and any number of other pulse-quickening events and occasions such as flooding and strikes, so the mutilation of the Wall for that is about as apt a phrase as I can come up with to describe what is taking place there has been relegated to lesser pages, if any at all.

If you need something to cry over, go to the Western Wall in Jerusalem. These grey days, it has the aspect of a maimed, caged lion. The plaza that was cleared of rubble in 1967, exposing the Wall to light, air, and to our eyes, is once again a construction site. This time, the plaza is being cut up in order to once again expand the enclosed area directly in front of the wall in which men and women are separated. This leaves but a narrow corridor in which the thousands wishing to visit the Wall, perhaps God forbid! accompanied by spouses, can stand.

I say "once again" because it almost goes without saying that this is only the most egregious offense undertaken by religious authorities at the Wall. The initial division of a segment of the plaza is, in my mind, unquestionable. People deserve to be able to pray at this holy site as they see fit; for many Jews, that involves isolation from the other sex. But since that move, the Western Wall has become an untouched fiefdom of our own little wakf.

Free-thinking Israel has abandoned the Wall as it has abandoned any number of other issues that touch upon it upon its history, upon its identity as if playing by the rules of a questionable, illusory game by which it is willing to abandon almost every identifying marker so long as Tel Aviv is left alone.

And so the Wall has long become an arena for the harassment of young women who are not dressed as the hooligans who claim to represent the local authority there dispose. Just ask any young female soldier what it's like. Ask women who on summer days in 35-degree weather dare to wear short-sleeved blouses. Yes, even religious women.

The decision to take more and more of the access to the Western Wall has, of course, nothing whatsoever to do with real religiosity or faith. One of the tragedies is that just as the secular have abandoned the Wall, the truly faithful are also turning their backs, leaving this symbol of our unity and our survival to a fringe of pseudo-religious hacks and interested parties who are turning it, slowly but surely, into a sacrilege.

Go see the Western Wall: You will see blasphemy in the making.


The author is a Jerusalem-based writer.